What is a rag joint, steering joint?

The rag joint other wise known as a steering joint or steering coupler is the connection between the steering gear box and your steering wheel shaft.

It comprises of a rubber fabric disk that helps buffer some of the road shock and when you run into a pot hole or speed bump.
It can, over time dry out and crack, causing some slop in your steering and if allowed to get bad enough, you could loose your steering all together.

The rag joint is one of the items that needs to be checked as soon as possible after you get your "New" Classic car or truck home and if need be replace it. This article is a step-by-step with video Rag Joint Replacement or Repair.

Some Tools you'll need to do this project are, Jack Stands, Ratchet/Wrench Set, Steering Wheel Puller, Drill.

Plan on taking your time, most of a day. You might have to drill some rivets out and that's why you need to remove the steering shaft. If your lucky and you have a newer style, then all you'll need is a Ratchet/Wrench Set,
and a rag joint. 

Image belongs to, Doug's Projects (Goody Guides) and Doug's Projects (YouTube)

PO300, That pesky random multiple misfire you can't find.

Random Multiple Misfires

PO300 can cause your head to explode!

I've been there, 96 GMC Sierra pickup truck.

You've changed the plugs, cap rotor, wires and still, A misfire. You check the book and read everything related to OBDII PO300 and the ignition system.
You've changed (Because it tested bad, or not, but it could be....) coil, the EGR, the oxygen sensor, cleaned or replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor and still you have Random Misfires and the code of OBDII PO300, pulling your hair now?

Distributors at Amazon.

You change the crank sensor, the cam sensor, the Vehicle Control Module AND Still you get OBDII PO300 (Beating head on brick wall now?)
You clean, check and maybe even change everything connected to the fuel injectors and what do you get (As the little green Yoda always said) HHHUUuuummmmmm?

Now you have a full mental melt down as you have chased this ghost all around under the hood, up, down, left, right, back to front. You done everything your brother said, brother-in-law said, the local mechanic, your best friend AND Still you have the herky-jerky as you cruse down the road screaming OBDII PO300 WHY?

PO300 Random Misfires Solved!!

Yeah, I've really been there!!!

Get a distributor at Amazon

I have a simple check you may not have found, it solved my problem and it won't cost you a dime to check.
Pop your distributor cap, yeah I know you've changed the cap and have to remove the wires Again. Trust me I've been there, however try moving your rotor back and forth. If you have a distributor with a mechanical advance (High Energy Ignition HEI ) there should be NO Play before the advance kicks in. If you have a distributor without an advance (Distributor Ignition DI ) there should be NO Play at all.
If you find any play it (AND it was what caused my random multiple misfire) is what is causing your random multiple misfire.
Replace your distributor!
Or at least the gear, now you could also have a worn upper bushing there too. I found that after buying the gear and bushing, with time to replace them, it'd cost about the same as just replacing the distributor.

Find your Distributor at Amazon.

My 1966 Chevy C10 Restoration Project

60 to 66 Chevy C10, Replacing rear shocks with Air Shocks

Rag Joint Replacement or Repair

PO300 chasing that Random Multiple Misfire!

Tune up Chevy 350

I just finished a Tuneup on the 350 in my 66 Chevy C10. Replaced the plugs, cap, rotor, plug wires and checked the distributor for play. I have a misfire so if the tuneup does not get rid of the misfire I'll know it's the distributor, which has some play in it so most likely will have to replace it. Learn more at Goody Guides or watch video at YouTube.

Rebuilding an older car or truck, things you need to think about.

Rebuilding a Classic Car or Truck?

Ask yourself some questions, here are just a few.

So you've decided to buy an older car or truck and rebuild it huh?

I'll just get down to some nitty gritty here OK? Lets ask a few questions.
How confident are you that you can do the body work?
How confident you can weld?
How mechanically inclined are you?
Me, I know I can tear an engine down and put it back together, I know I can do the same with a transmission.
I know a little about body work and I'm very confident I can learn what I don't know.
Yeah I'll make mistakes and I'll have to fix them.
I know more about welding and I have alot to learn about it to.
Will I make mistakes there too, you bet. However, like in all things in life, you have to fall down before you can run.
Embrace your mistakes, learn what you did wrong, then fix it don't whine about them.
So when choosing your "New" classic truck or car to restore be sure you don't bite off more then you can chew. Get one that you feel confident you can do the work on.
If you feel you can't learn to weld, don't get one that needs any body work other then a paint job.
Needs mechanical work? Are you able to do that?
Do you have the tools? Can you afford to buy what you need?
Take your time when choosing, don't worry that you'll miss out on a great deal.
Don't jump on the first car or truck you look at because you believe it's the best you'll find.
Trust me, there are others out there and most likely the first one you look at will still be there in a week or month.
Go slow and don't get in over your head.

Join me on my project and see my mistakes and accomplishments and we can learn together.

Articles Doug's Projects: Doug's Projects on Goody Guides
Videos Doug's Projects: YouTube Channel Doug's Projects

Installing rear air shocks on a Chevy C10

How to install Air Shocks on a Chevy Pickup Truck

 Replacing the Rear Shocks on a Chevy Truck

You want your "New" Chevy pickup truck to have that proper rake? Installing air shocks will give you that "My C10 Rules the World" Look. It also improves the ride, drive-ability, towing and hauling performance. Air shocks is an inexpensive way keep your Chevy C10 from dragging the ground when you need to tow a trailer.
If you have not done this before, having step-by-step instructions with video can be helpful. These instructions work on any 60 to 66 Chevy C10 and will work on almost any Chevrolet pickup truck.

These links will get you to those instructions.
Article: Replacing Rear Shocks with Air Shocks
Video: Replacing rear shocks on a C10 with air shocks

Working on classic trucks don't take alot of fancy tools, the tool set I rely on the most is the Stanley 92-839 Black Chrome and Laser Etched Socket Set, 99 Pieces.

There is a less expensive set, same quality, less money more tools.
Husky Tool set 111 pieces.

Introduction to Doug's Projects

Doug's Projects

 

1966 Chevy C10 Rebuild Project

Introduction to my 66 pickup truck

 I'll be posting video of the work I do on my 66 C10 as well as other projects I do around the house, including rebuilding an old boat I have had for several years now.

I'll show the right way to do things and the mistakes I make along the way so you won't have to learn the hard way.

I'll also be reviewing or at least post what tools, parts and equipment I use and where you can buy what you need to do these projects yourself.

So come along with me as I use my years of experience on projects and learn some new things on other projects.

I ain't got a clue what I'm doing with a Blog.
So come along with me as I learn about Blogging.

Here is the Intro video to my 1966 C10 Chevrolet Pickup Truck
This is the Intro Article on how I came to choose this 66 C10 SWB Fleetside

This tool set I have had for 6 years now. I have no complaints, I've used a 18IN cheater on the 3/8's driver quite a few times to brake nuts and bolts loose with no problems:
Stanley 92-839 Black Chrome and Laser Etched Socket Set, 99 Pieces